‘Pearls are always right!’ said Coco Chanel, and pearls became fashionable. In the 1920s, she suggested wearing not only natural pearls but also artificial ones, which made them very popular among fashionistas of that time.
Pearls
Thanks to Chanel, women began to combine pearls with evening dresses, jumpers, and jackets. She suggested wearing several strands (layers) at once and fastening them with a brooch. This technique is still popular today and, of course, takes us back to the days of the legendary Mademoiselle. Later, with the arrival of Karl Lagerfeld at the fashion house in 1983, pearl jewellery became more aggressive: powerful pearl necklaces and chains adorned the bold looks of models inspired by hip-hop street culture.
Although many people associate pearls exclusively with Chanel, their era began much earlier. Pearls have been captivating people since ancient times — there were many legends about them, and they were considered the main treasure of Rome. During the Renaissance, pearl jewellery was everywhere, from high society events to everyday life. At that time, they became more accessible and were worn not only by the aristocracy. The ‘Age of Pearls’ had arrived. We cannot fail to mention the main admirer of pearl necklaces — Queen Elizabeth I of England, who preferred them to all other jewels. Few people know that her great love for this ‘treasure of the sea’ began with a necklace — a gift from her father, which she wore from childhood and cherished significantly. Men of that time were not far behind — they wore rings and suits embroidered with pearls. With the advent of the 18th century, the pearl era came to an end for natural reasons — resources were depleted. The price of pearls rose dramatically. For example, in 1916, Pierre Cartier (yes, the grandson of Louis-François Cartier, who created the luxury empire) bought a store on the famous 5th Avenue in New York for just two pearl necklaces.
At the beginning of the 20th century, thanks to the founder of the Mikimoto jewellery brand, Mikimoto Kokichi, the world was introduced to cultured pearls. He invented his own method of pearl cultivation and became the ‘King of Pearls’. This discovery changed the lives of many women. Cherished jewellery finally became accessible after a long period of obscurity. ‘I want to adorn all women with pearls,’ said the jeweller. And so it happened — within a few years, the Japanese brand gained worldwide popularity, and pearl jewellery sold rapidly. The most unusual piece of jewellery created by Mikimoto is a brooch that can be transformed into 30 other pieces. It is a unique piece that has not been replicated.
When talking about pearls, it is impossible not to mention the film ‘Breakfast at Tiffany's’, which was released in 1961. The image of the main character, Holly Golightly, played by Audrey Hepburn, left no one indifferent. The perfect black dress by Givenchy and the accent pearl necklace are elegant classics that are not subject to time. By the way, this luxurious necklace was created by French designer Roger Schemham.
Today, we are once again experiencing a ‘pearl wave’ — fashion houses continue to showcase them on the catwalks from season to season actively. Pearls are now everywhere: from jewellery and accessories to outerwear. In the Versace SS/2024 collection, Donatella Versace embellished jeans and denim jackets (for both women and men) with a scattering of pearls. The Dsquared2 SS/2024 brand presented a pearl bodice complemented by a bright ‘tennis’ skirt and a dark blue jacket. In the Bottega Veneta SS/2024 collection, Matthieu Blazy embroidered the straps of a perforated lemon dress with baroque pearls, while Maria Grazia Chiuri completely embroidered a two-piece suit with a skirt with pearls for the Christian Dior FW/2024 collection. Givenchy's SS/2024 collection favoured large pearl earrings and necklaces with pearls of various shapes. And finally, Chanel, who sing an eternal ode to pearls, presented a three-strand pearl choker decorated with a brooch in the shape of the brand's logo in their FW/2024 collection.
So why do pearls remain in the minds of designers? Perhaps the reason lies in their versatility? They easily adapt to any mood: femininity and elegance, boldness and extravagance, minimalism and laconicism — pearls can do it all! But let's not forget the mystery that surrounds this material. It is considered a symbol of purity and innocence, but at the same time, it is a sign of power. Perhaps that is why pearls have found such a firm place in our hearts...
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